In fashion design, the creative journey often begins with a single sample size—typically a size 6 or 8 in womenswear or a size M in menswear. But to bring your designs to the broader market, you need to scale that pattern up or down to fit a range of body types. This process is called pattern grading, and it’s one of the most technically important—and often overlooked—steps in apparel development.
Understanding pattern grading helps designers ensure their garments retain the intended silhouette, comfort, and proportions across all sizes. Whether you’re working with standard sizing or inclusive ranges, a solid grasp of grading is essential for creating professional, consistent collections.
In this blog, we’ll explore what pattern grading is, why it matters, how it’s done, and best practices for designers scaling their garments for production.
📏 What Is Pattern Grading?
Pattern grading is the method of increasing or decreasing the dimensions of a base pattern (sample size) to create a range of other sizes. It involves adjusting key points of the pattern to ensure the garment fits larger or smaller bodies without distorting its design.
For example:
- A size 8 bodice might be graded up to a size 10 by widening the bust, waist, and hips slightly.
- The same base can be graded down to a size 6 by proportionally reducing those areas.
Grading doesn’t change the design—it scales it.
🔍 Why Grading Matters
- Consistency: Ensures the same garment looks and feels right in every size.
- Efficiency: Saves time and money by avoiding separate pattern drafting for each size.
- Inclusivity: Supports broader size offerings and minimizes fitting issues.
- Manufacturing Accuracy: Necessary for producing tech packs, markers, and cutting layouts.
💡 Good grading preserves design integrity; bad grading compromises fit, comfort, and brand reputation.
✂️ How Pattern Grading Is Done
Grading can be done manually, with grading rules, or digitally using CAD software like Gerber, Optitex, or CLO.
🛠️ 1. Manual Grading (Traditional Method)
Involves marking points on paper patterns and shifting them using grading increments. Tools include:
- Rulers
- Notchers
- French curves
- Grading grids
✅ Best for: Custom, small-batch production
⏱ Time-intensive, but useful for learning proportions
💻 2. Digital Grading (CAD)
Uses software to apply size rules to base patterns automatically.
✅ Best for: Mass production, fast prototyping, data-driven design
📊 Offers precision, speed, and integration with tech packs
📐 Understanding Grading Rules
Grading rules are the specific measurements added or subtracted from each point of the pattern when moving between sizes. These rules vary by:
- Size category (women’s, men’s, plus-size, children’s)
- Body measurement charts
- Garment type and ease
- Brand sizing philosophy
📌 Example Grading Rule for a Bodice (Women’s):
| Size | Bust | Waist | Hip |
|---|---|---|---|
| 6 | 34″ | 26″ | 36″ |
| 8 | 35″ | 27″ | 37″ |
| 10 | 36″ | 28″ | 38″ |
Grading Rule: +1” bust, +1” waist, +1” hip per size
Each pattern point (shoulder, side seam, neckline, waist dart) is adjusted incrementally according to these rules.
📊 Types of Grading
1. Grade Rules by Measurement
This approach uses fixed increments between sizes. Simple and effective for standard ranges.
2. Nested Grading
All sizes are layered over each other from the same base, forming a “graded nest.” Helps visualize growth.
3. Proportional Grading
Increments vary based on body zones—e.g., bust may increase more than the shoulder width.
4. Split Grading
Used in inclusive sizing. Grading rules may change for standard vs. plus sizes to better fit body shape differences.
🔬 Common Grading Challenges
- Distorted Proportions: If not graded properly, necklines or armholes can become too large or sleeves can shift off-shoulder.
- Style Loss: Key design details (pleats, darts, drapes) can look out of place in certain sizes.
- Fabric Considerations: Stretch or woven fabric types affect how much grading is needed.
- Fit Discrepancies: Poor grading can result in sizing inconsistencies across different garments.
🧠 Tip: Always test fit your graded sizes with real models or fit forms before production.
📈 Grading for Inclusive and Plus-Size Ranges
Inclusive sizing requires more than just extending the same rules. Bodies change shape, not just size. For plus-size grading, adjustments might include:
- Redefining proportions (e.g., adding more to bust than waist)
- Altering dart placement or sleeve caps
- Considering mobility and comfort ease
🧷 Inclusive grading must be thoughtful, not just mathematical.
🧵 Grading vs. Fit: Know the Difference
- Grading = Mathematical process of scaling patterns
- Fit = Real-life garment behavior on a body
Even if a garment is correctly graded, it might still not fit well—which is why fit testing is critical after grading.
From Sample to Size Run
Pattern grading is the bridge between design vision and market-ready sizing. When done well, it preserves the soul of your garment across every size—giving every customer a consistent, flattering fit.
As a designer, understanding grading—even at a basic level—empowers you to:
- Communicate better with patternmakers
- Anticipate design challenges in different sizes
- Build inclusive, scalable, and sellable collections
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