Navigating Unpaid Internships & Your Rights: A Guide for Fashion and Creative Students

In the fashion and creative industries, unpaid internships have long been seen as a rite of passage—an opportunity to “get your foot in the door” at prestigious companies, fashion houses, and studios.

But are they ethical? Are they legal? And how can you protect your rights while maximizing the opportunity?

This guide explores everything you need to know about navigating unpaid internships, especially in fashion, design, and creative fields—whether you’re a student, recent graduate, or freelancer.

🔍 Why Are Unpaid Internships So Common in Fashion?

Fashion is a high-demand, prestige-driven industry. Internships at names like Vogue, Balenciaga, or Alexander McQueen often offer:

High visibility for your resume
Exposure to industry leaders
Behind-the-scenes experience during shows or production

But the dark side? Many internships remain unpaid or underpaid, exploiting young talent in exchange for “exposure.”

⚖️ The Legal Status of Unpaid Internships (By Country)

Let’s break it down by region:

🇺🇸 United States

Under U.S. labor law (FLSA), unpaid internships must meet specific criteria:

The internship benefits the intern, not the company
The intern does not displace paid employees
The employer derives no immediate advantage from the intern’s work
It’s clearly educational in nature

💡 If you’re doing actual work for a for-profit company (like assisting on shoots, sewing, or styling) and not being paid, it may be illegal.

🔗 U.S. Department of Labor – Internship Guidelines

🇬🇧 United Kingdom

In the UK, if you’re performing tasks and expected to work set hours, you are likely considered a “worker” and must be paid at least minimum wage.

Exceptions:

If it’s part of a university program or short work experience (under 1 year)
If it’s a voluntary role for a registered charity

🔗 UK Gov – National Minimum Wage and Interns

🇫🇷 France

Internships in France are regulated by law:

Any internship over 2 months must be paid (minimum ~€4.35/hour)
Interns must sign a “convention de stage” (tripartite agreement with school and company)
Strict maximum duration: 6 months per year

🇮🇹 Italy

Unpaid internships are generally discouraged, especially in the private sector. Regional guidelines vary, but:

Internships usually must be approved and include educational objectives
Paid internships are often subsidized by the state or universities

🌍 Global Rule of Thumb

If you’re generating value for the company, you should be compensated, unless it’s part of a formal, educationally-supervised placement.

🎯 When Is an Unpaid Internship Worth Considering?

Unpaid internships aren’t always exploitative—but you must evaluate carefully. It may be worth it if:

✅ It’s structured for learning

Mentorship is provided
You have access to real industry processes
You’re observing or shadowing, not just laboring

✅ It’s short-term and leads somewhere

Internship is 2–4 weeks, with the possibility of a paid extension
You get strong portfolio pieces or connections
The name of the brand opens future doors

✅ You can afford it

You have part-time work or financial support
Internship doesn’t block access to paid opportunities
You’re not commuting or covering major expenses out of pocket

🚩 When You Should Walk Away

If any of the following are true, reconsider or renegotiate:

❌ You’re working full-time hours unpaid
❌ You’re performing tasks that clearly generate revenue (e.g. sales, social media content, product prep)
❌ No training, feedback, or structured learning
❌ No written agreement or end date
❌ You’re asked to pay for your own materials, food, or equipment
❌ You’re expected to “just be grateful” for the name on your resume

💡 Know Your Rights: Key Protections You May Have

Right	Who It’s For	Notes
Minimum Wage	UK, Canada, parts of EU	If treated as a worker, you must be paid
Written Internship Agreement	France, Italy, Germany	Often required by law
Maximum Work Hours	EU, Australia	Typically ~35–40 hrs/week max for interns
Safe Working Conditions	All countries	Interns are entitled to a safe, respectful environment
Anti-Discrimination Laws	Global	You cannot be discriminated against or harassed

📝 What to Ask Before Accepting Any Internship

Use this checklist before saying yes:

Is this internship paid? If not, why?
Is there a clear educational component or mentor assigned?
What are the expected tasks and working hours?
Is there a written agreement outlining expectations?
Will I get a letter of recommendation or evaluation?
Is this internship required or endorsed by my school?
What opportunities could follow (hiring, freelance, references)?

💬 How to Talk About Compensation (Without Burning Bridges)

It’s okay to ask about pay—even at your dream fashion house. Try saying:

“Can I confirm whether this internship is paid or unpaid? I want to make sure I can fully commit and budget for the opportunity.”

Or:

“I’m very excited about the role and learning more about [Brand Name], but I’d love to understand if there’s any compensation or stipend available.”

If the answer is “no,” follow up with:

“Thanks for the transparency! Could we talk about whether it might be possible to cover transportation or meals, or offer school credit?”

You’d be surprised—brands sometimes have budget they don’t advertise until asked.

🧠 Alternatives to Unpaid Internships

If an unpaid internship feels exploitative or financially impossible, consider:

Short freelance gigs (help a stylist on a shoot, assist a local designer)
Remote fashion internships that fit your schedule
Self-directed portfolio projects based on briefs from real fashion houses
Open calls or competitions (e.g., Redress Design Award, LVMH Prize, CFDA student initiatives)
Start your own capsule collection or zine and pitch it as experience

🔄 Your Internship Rights in Practice: Real Stories

“I worked 60 hours a week during Paris Fashion Week unpaid. I loved the experience, but I wish I knew my rights.”
— Isabelle, design intern at a major couture house

“I asked for a stipend and ended up getting my metro card paid for. It helped me stay the full 3 months.”
— Raj, marketing intern in Milan

“After one unpaid internship, I created my own fashion blog, and that actually led to a paid assistant stylist job.”
— Maya, NYC fashion blogger-turned-editorial assistant

🔐 Protect Yourself: Legal & Practical Tips

Always get a written agreement or contract
Keep track of hours worked and tasks completed
Avoid paying for travel unless explicitly agreed
Don’t let an unpaid role go longer than 3–6 months
Report violations anonymously via watchdog organizations in your country

📌 Quick Summary: Know Before You Intern

Criteria	Is the Internship Worth It?
You’re gaining mentorship and education	✅ Yes
Tasks are admin-only with no guidance	❌ No
Short-term with long-term benefits	✅ Yes
Full-time unpaid with no outcome	❌ No
Aligns with your future goals and brand vision	✅ Yes
You feel uncomfortable or exploited	❌ Walk away

Advocate for Yourself and Others

The fashion world is changing. More creatives are calling out exploitative practices, and your voice matters.

You deserve to be compensated for your work—or at least educated and mentored with care. Don’t be afraid to ask questions, walk away, or speak up. You’re building a career, not just padding a resume.

✨ Remember: exposure doesn’t pay rent. But knowledge, strategy, and community will get you paid.